There was loads of fresh fruit and vegetables, more live seafood for sale and all sorts of meat - including chickens' feet.
At the end of the market we finally caught one of Hong Kong's old trams through Central to the Bank of China, the iconic "triangle" building. The trams are pretty jerky and very narrow, but they keep going.
The Bank of China has a viewing platform which afforded us fantastic views over Central and Admiralty. Even more surprising was that the bank was open on a Saturday! More importantly though was that the fog had lifted for the first time.
For our final excursion we took a bus to the south of the island to Stanley. As the double-decker bus started climbing up the hills the roads started getting more winding and narrower. As we came down the other side of the hill, the road quality deteriorated and the ride became more akin to a roller-coaster with as we worked our way past the luxury houses to Stanley. Stanley is famous for its market and once again the area turned out to be full of knock-off shops and overly priced restaurants and westernised bars along the China Sea front. We went for a dim-sum restaurant, tucked away behind the market, hoping it might be a hidden gem. We even went for the chicken-feet. We were disappointed on both fronts. Chickens' feet are probably the most pointless food ever - there is more bone and gristle than meat.
The bus back came through a tunnel rather than the hill-top road and was much less hair-raising. We traversed the bay on the Star Ferry again to wait for dusk and the symphony of lights. This time I was able to get some nice photos without fog.
We took the ferry back to the island for our final meal out in an very old restaurant that slowly descended into farce. The waiter seem confused by our order (two different set meals), but seemed to grasp the idea in the end. After a while the first meal's first course (bird's nest soup) arrived. A few minutes later, nothing else had arrived, so we questioned where the other meal was. The waiter got across that he'd thought only one of us was eating, but we convinced him we both wanted food. He came back a few moments later and thrust a spoon at Emma and then went away again. After a few minutes it became clear he wasn't coming back with any more food and had assumed that we were being cheap-wads and sharing one meal between two. After calling over a different waiter we finally got the message across and soon were tucking into roast pigeon. Unfortunately, the main dish was pretty rank. As as final "insult" to the restaurant, their oldest waiter - who looked about 80 - nearly tripped over whilst serving our desert. We gulped down the desert, paid up and ran before we caused any other mishaps.
Hong Kong is like a real culture smash between east and west - the British influences are clearly there and they fall away quickly the further into Kowloon you go. It's a very good starting point for people who want to explore east Asia for the first time. There was so much we didn't have time for - notably the New Territories, but these are more Cantonese than British and off the main tourist trail. Maybe next time.
The next day we got up and took the MTR for the final time to Hong Kong and got the skytrain back to the Airport for the flight back home. This time, Air France had remembered our seat bookings, but of course there had to be a problem and that was that the already mediocre entertainment system refused to play any films leading to a 12 hour flight where we had to entertain ourselves. Still at least we'd get home in one piece.
Or were we? Despite have a 4 hour layover in Paris, which was extended by an hours delay, we arrived in Manchester to find an entire crate of luggage had been left on the tarmac in Paris. Nevermind, Air France had the pleasure of couriering my bag from Manchester to Durham. Take that!
